Baku: How the City Is Laid Out and How to Use It

Baku is one city built in three layers, and they sit next to each other rather than apart. A walled medieval town, an oil-money centre from the nineteenth century, and a glass skyline above both.

Understanding that layout is most of what a first visit needs. The rest is choosing what to leave out.

The three layers

The Old City is the walled core, small enough to cross in fifteen minutes. Around it stands the centre built by the first oil boom, with wide streets and heavy stone facades.

Above and behind them sit the towers and the newer districts. Our page on the Old City covers the walled part in detail.

The seafront

The boulevard runs for kilometres along the Caspian and it is flat the whole way. It is where the city goes when the day cools down.

Treat it as the end of a day rather than the middle of one. The light off the water in the last hour is the reason.

The wind

The peninsula is exposed, and the wind is a permanent feature rather than a season. Locals name it, plan around it and dress for it.

It changes what a warm day feels like. Our page on the wind explains when it helps and when it ruins a plan.

How long to stay

Two days for the centre on foot. A third for Gobustan or the Absheron peninsula.

If you have one day only, our one-day route keeps it all on foot. For three, our three-day plan sets the order.

Getting around

Walk in the centre. Take the metro for anything beyond it, because it is quick, cheap and simple to read.

Ride apps work well and cost little. Our page on moving around the city compares them properly.

Where to stay

Location matters more than the star rating here. Inside the walls is charming and noisy. On the seafront is scenic and further from dinner.

One street back from either is the answer for most people. Our page on where to stay breaks the districts down.

Eating

Food is the part visitors underrate before arriving. Grilled meat, herbs by the handful, bread from a hot oven, and tea that goes on for an hour.

Eat one street off the main routes. Our page on the food here says what to order first.

Evenings

The city gets going late. Dinner at nine is normal and nothing feels rushed before then.

Tea houses, small bars and the boulevard cover most evenings. Our page on Baku after dark covers the rest.

Museums

Pick one for a short stay. The carpet museum explains more about the country than any building will.

Our page on the museums says which ones reward a second visit.

With children

Distances are short, the boulevard is flat and pushchair friendly, and food is easy for fussy eaters. Heat and traffic are the two real problems.

Our page on Baku with children covers the practical side.

On a budget

Metro fares, bakeries and a walking day cost very little. Hotels and airport taxis are where a budget leaks.

Our page on Baku cheaply has the detail.

Going out of the city

Gobustan, the Absheron fire sites and the mud volcanoes are half-day or full-day trips. Sheki and Guba are not day trips, whatever anyone tells you.

Our page on day trips sorts them by the time each one really takes.

A guided day

If you would rather be walked through the city than read about it, our city tour page explains what a guided day covers and who it suits.

Arranging it

Tell us your arrival time, your hotel area and how many nights you have. We will shape the days around that, and say which trip out of the city fits.